This is another iteration of my pizza dough recipe, based on some experimentation in late 2021. This is a medium-high hydration dough, optionally reinforced with additional gluten for structure and chew. I skip the autolyse step now, which I’ve replaced with a longer cold rise time. This recipe is based on Flour Water Salt Yeast, with gluten ratios lifted from recipes at Serious Eats (aiming at ~13–14% protein).
Mechanic
This dough runs at ~75% hydration, with vital wheat gluten added to push the flour blend toward ~13–14% protein, closer to bread flour, for more structure and chew. Skipping the autolyse in favour of a long cold ferment (24 hours minimum, up to 5–6 days) develops flavour instead, while keeping the mixing itself to one pass.
Ingredients
- 1000 g all-purpose flour
- 20 g vital wheat gluten (replace with flour if needed)
- 25 g kosher salt
- 20 g granulated sugar
- 7 g instant yeast (~2¼ tsp, one packet)
- 750 g warm water, 30–35°C (86–95°F)
- 30 g olive oil
- 10–20 g olive oil, for the proofing bucket
Method
Put the flour, gluten, salt, sugar, and yeast in a stand mixer bowl. Stir to combine with the dough hook on the lowest setting.
Drizzle in the water and mix until combined. Add the olive oil and mix until combined.
Knead on medium until the dough is smooth and pulls free of the bowl, 5–10 minutes. You may need to scrape down the hook and bowl a few times with a dough scraper, or raise and lower the bowl. It’s ready when it forms a smooth, cohesive ball (or lump).
Oil a proofing bucket and transfer the dough to it. Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours; 48–72 hours is ideal, and up to 5–6 days works.
Making pizzas
Pull 300 g (small) to 450 g (medium) chunks of dough from the bucket and form balls on a lightly floured counter. Let them come up to room temperature and rise a bit, about 2 hours depending on how warm your kitchen is. Use the finger test to tell when they’re ready: underproofed dough won’t stretch well and bubbles up more in the bake.
Heat the oven to 230°C (450°F). Roll out or otherwise flatten each ball on a floured counter. Put it on a lightly greased pan or ungreased parchment and add toppings.
Bake on the middle rack until the crust is golden and crisp underneath, 10–15 minutes. A pizza steel or stone, or a cast-iron or carbon-steel pan, gives a slightly better crust in less time.
Notes
Making other breads
When you have leftover pizza dough you can make other breads with it. Since leftovers have usually cold-fermented more than 72 hours, you’ll get something closer to a sourdough.
Focaccia: bring dough to room temperature, longer rise, lots of oil.
Ciabatta: form short loaves with the letter fold technique. Longer rise. Cooking in a vessel can result in a better crust.
Baguette: similar to ciabatta, but also vented and sprayed with additional water.
Loaf: With loose dough pull the corners over itself 5–10 times, rotating between corners. Invert and form a tight dough ball much like a bun or pizza, let rise. Drop in a parchment-lined Dutch oven and score.
Internal temperature guide
- 88°C (190°F): slightly under
- 94°C (200°F): fully done
Troubleshooting
- If the dough isn’t crispy or cooked on the bottom, add it to a medium-hot non-stick pan and finish the crust.
- For future pizzas, try different pans, steels, stones, and positions in the oven. Try to use the hottest temperature possible, to get the best structure and chew.
- Electric ovens recover poorly from being opened, so making more than 2–3 will often require a bunch of recharge time to get that temp back up again.
- See also The Aldersons’ epic 12 days of pizza, our family’s 12-pizza Christmas marathon.