This is a classic baked mac and cheese. You can sub in pretty much any combo of cheese, though some are better than others: cheddar, Jack, and something like Gruyère or Edam make a great base, or you can lean towards a creamier sauce with provolone, smoked Gouda, and Edam. I’ve seen people use cream cheese, but it doesn’t add much flavour (provolone or mozzarella gets a similar effect while adding some needed funk).
Mechanic
A mornay is a béchamel (roux plus milk) with cheese melted into it. A roux is flour and fat, 1:1. The sauce breaks and turns gritty if it overheats, so the cheese goes in off the heat and the bake stops at bubbling.
Crust
- ¾ cup panko bread crumbs
- 2 tsp herbs, like basil, oregano, or parsley (freeze-dried works fine)
- 4 tbsp (¼ cup) unsalted butter or olive oil
- Salt and pepper, to taste
Melt the butter in a frying pan, then take it off the heat. Stir in the bread crumbs and herbs, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside; they brown in the oven.
Noodles
- 500 g (1 lb) macaroni, or a fancier noodle that holds onto the sauce
Cook the noodles until 1–2 minutes short of al dente; they finish in the oven. Reserve some pasta water in case the sauce needs loosening, then drain.
Mornay sauce
- ⅓ cup unsalted butter (or part neutral oil)
- ⅓ cup flour (or sweet rice flour)
- 3 cups whole milk
- 2–3 cups grated cheddar, sharp or old
- 2–3 cups grated Gruyère or similar (I also like Edam)
- ½ cup mozzarella (or provolone for a stretchy sauce)
- 1 cup grated Parmesan
- Splash of lemon juice or mustard
- Splash of cider vinegar, to taste (usually around 25 ml)
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 1 tsp paprika (optional)
- MSG, 1.5% of the cheese weight (about 10 g) (optional)
- Sodium citrate, 3% of the cheese weight (about 20 g), an emulsifying salt for a smoother sauce (optional)
Combine the grated cheeses and weigh them to work out the MSG and sodium citrate. Over low heat, stir the butter and flour into a blonde roux. Slowly whisk in the milk until you have a smooth, lightly thickened béchamel. Whisk in the sodium citrate, if using, until dissolved.
Take the pot off the heat. Add most (not all) of the cheese a handful at a time, stirring until silky. Keep it off the heat so it doesn’t break.
Season with pepper, paprika, and MSG, then salt; taste first, since some cheeses are already salty. Add the lemon or mustard and vinegar a little at a time. You can fix a flat sauce with the right acid and more salt, but go slowly, since it’s hard to undo.
Assembly
Heat the oven to 175–190°C (350–375°F).
Stir the noodles into the sauce in the pot, along with any add-ins.
Spread half the cheesy noodles in a baking dish and scatter over half the remaining cheese. Add the rest of the noodles, then the rest of the cheese, the crumb mixture, and any reserved add-ins.
Bake until browning and bubbly, 25–35 minutes (40–50 minutes from the fridge). Don’t let it go longer; overheating breaks the sauce and makes it grainy.
Variations
Jalapeño
Mix 2 small tins of roasted jalapeños into the noodles and sauce.
Smoked tempeh
Dice ½ package of smoked tempeh and fry it in butter or oil with a little salt. Mix most into the noodles and sauce and save some for the top.
Bacon
Chop a couple of strips of crispy bacon. Mix most into the noodles and sauce and save some for the top.