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Leftovers casserole

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Any big dinner with leftovers makes a casserole, and it’s often better than the meal it came from. The sauce soaks into the starch, the edges crisp, and everything that was on separate plates tastes like one dish. Everything in it was made to go together the night before, so there’s not much to decide.

There are two ways up. A roast dinner puts the starch on top, as a lid of mash or stuffing over the meat and gravy. Takeout turns it upside down: the rice or noodles are the bed, and the saucy dishes go on top and run down into them.

Picks

Last night’s flavours, with a browned top or crisp edges.

  • The starch: Mash and stuffing on top for a roast dinner; rice or noodles underneath for takeout
  • The filling: Leftover meat and vegetables, cut to bite size
  • The sauce: The dinner’s own: the gravy, or the takeout’s sauces, with a splash of stock
  • The top and the bake: Mash ridged and browned under the broiler, or nothing on takeout but its own dishes

Upside down: takeout

Family-style takeout leaves a little of everything: rice, noodles, two curries, some stir-fry. Leftover rice is dry, so it goes on the bottom where the sauces from above can soak into it. On top it would just dry out more.

Why these picks

  • The dinner’s own sauce. Turkey gets its gravy, takeout keeps its sauces. A new sauce tastes like a second dinner.
  • Gravy under and over the turkey. A layer on the dish keeps it from sticking, and a layer over the turkey soaks into it and the vegetables as it bakes, so nothing dries out.
  • Saucy dishes on top of takeout. They run down through the rest; drier dishes go in the middle.
  • One cuisine at a time. Thai with Thai, Indian with Indian. Mixing them works less often than you’d think.

How it fails

  • Dry: not enough sauce. Turkey, stuffing, and leftover rice all drink it. Make extra gravy on the day, or splash stock or coconut milk over the rice before the rest goes on.
  • Soggy: too much sauce over noodles. Noodles drink less than rice.
  • Cold in the middle: a deep dish of cold leftovers. Check the centre reaches 74°C (165°F).

Variations

  • Cranberry: a thin layer of cranberry sauce over the turkey.
  • Stuffing on top: skip the mash and let the stuffing crisp.
  • Cheese on takeout: a little mozzarella over Indian leftovers, like a cheese naan.
  • A fried egg on top of the takeout version, once it’s out of the oven.

Recipes